Los Angeles: a homecoming of sorts
Los Angeles is a vibe. The constant sunshine, palm trees in abundance, some of the best Mexican food you’ll ever have and laidback friendly locals make it a great American city to visit.
You might be wondering why I went to LA of all places and why I say it’s a homecoming of sorts. Well, this trip had been 18 years in the making. For me, Los Angeles has always meant unconditional love, laughs and the biggest hugs from my teddy bear Jamaican grandfather. For those who don’t know me in real life, we were very close ( I was definitely the favourite grandchild-ha!). After he passed away in 2005 from a very long battle with cancer, I could not bring myself to step foot in California but something (God, the Universe, Mother Creator whatever you choose) nudged me suddenly to visit and I’m really glad I did.
I always wondered why my grandfather refused to move closer to family in Canada, even as he fell ill, but this trip showed me why. I felt like I was really able to take in the city (and surrounding areas) for a good chunk of time and came away with some major highlights, so let’s get into it!
Where to stay
I think if you’re brand new to the city and don’t really have any business pulling you to south Los Angeles then West Hollywood, Venice Beach, Silver Lake or Pacific Palisades are great areas to stay in. A lot of my childhood memories were in Inglewood, the Valley and Beverly Hills; but I wanted somewhere close to Inglewood (where my grandpa’s house still is!) and LAX, as well as nearby freeway access (this is key given how heavy traffic can get).
I found this charming guesthouse on Airbnb in Westchester and the reviews did not lie. I wanted a quintessential ‘Cali’ feel and it delivered just that. It was exceptionally clean, bright, quiet, private and in a lovely lowkey neighbourhood. The guesthouse was perfectly situated right by the freeways and funny enough, just a short drive to my grandpa’s house that I grew up staying in when I’d visit. Win-win all around.
Where to eat
I have to admit, my fondest food memory in Los Angeles was tied to churros. I’d have them every single time I visited-as a little girl from the Prairies, it felt like I had hit the lottery eating them! If you don’t know what I’m talking about, churros are perfect little pieces of fried dough rolled in cinnamon sugar, with origins in Portugal or Spain depending on who you ask. But now that I could drive around on my own, it was time to explore the fantastic local food scene beyond churros!
I have to take a moment to thank my husband for taking full responsibility of our eats when we travel, because he always picks the best places (except for brunch, that’s where I shine). He found so many great places that I won’t be able to fit them all in this post but wanted to mention a few special ones. Also, keep in mind that eating out is pretty pricey except for the food trucks…maybe.
Perhaps because the Mexican food had never failed me in Los Angeles, my expectations weren’t incredibly high when we rolled up to Mercado La Paloma. The Mercado is located in the Figueroa corridor of South LA and it is unfortunately clear, that the area suffers from a longstanding “lack of investment” or interest from the City. But do not let that deter you (during the daylight hours). This spot is damn popular for a reason, it is home to three time Michelin Bib recipient holbox. If you ask me, Jesús touched those tacos because they are perfection. Yes, even better than the tacos in Mexico City *gasp*. Just go.
To give you an idea of prices, we spent approximately $50 USD on 4 tacos, aguachile, one order of chips, one order of churros and drinks. Definitely worth every dollar because the quality was simply outstanding.
A few tips about the mercado: 1) there is seating both inside and out. We opted to dine outside because the weather was nice and we had left winter behind in Toronto, 2) parking is free in the lot attached to the mercado + on the adjacent street and 3) there are other food stalls, in case tacos aren’t your thing…but seriously who doesn’t love tacos?!
This next spot is for my brunch lovers: Republique. Housed in a gorgeous historic building first erected by Charlie Chaplin in 1929, the award-winning cafe+bakery features a heavily French-inspired menu and everything…I mean everything…was hands down amazing and incredibly fresh. The pictures below don’t do it justice. I loved that you can dine indoors or out, like most places in LA and that the line moved fast. It is not cheap, like most top-notch brunch spots but again, well worth it and I will absolutely make a point to go back when we visit in the future. Los Angeles is a city that knows how to brunch.
Other honourable mentions that should not be missed: Simón which is a DELICIOUS Mexican seafood truck (we went back for seconds after strolling around the area a bit), Malibu Seafood for fresh seafood that is relatively cheap, Antico Nuovo for amazing Italian with a very stylish/artsy crowd, the downtown landmark of Grand Central Market for stand-out Salvadorean pupusas at Sarita’s and The Boy and The Bear for possibly the smoothest coffee in the city (we tried several!).
Maybe an unpopular opinion but feel free to skip Pann’s diner, unless you really want a retro vibe for breakfast or you’re a fan of the HBO hit show ‘Insecure’ which the hubby and I are…unfortunately, the food was a miss.
Where to shop
Vintage, luxury, handmade or not, athleisure, hipster. Whatever you want, you can find it in this city. I loved checking out The Grove, a beautiful outdoor shopping centre with one of only a handful of Sephoras (at the time we went) that carried Ami Colé. I really wanted her lip oil and I’m happy to report that it lived up to the hype. Another shopping area I enjoyed and highly recommend is Abbot Kinney Blvd in Venice Beach, as it introduced me to Birdies shoes. I snagged some fun yellow runners (aka sneakers) that have served me well when I’m running errands at home. Sadly though, the location on Abbot Kinney Blvd has since closed and only the one in San Francisco remains. For my fellow Torontonians, think of this strip as the more colourful equivalent to Queen West but with never-ending sunshine and excellent coffee shops everywhere.
Nooworks is one store I want to highlight, as it was on my must-visit list after seeing their collaboration with creative director Michelle Norris of Tropico Photo. Located in Highland Park, it is owned and operated by women with all clothing made right there in California. It’s such a colourful and fun store to shop in, that although I had planned to get one piece of the Tropico collection…let’s just say I walked away with a few more. If you love colour in your wardrobe, definitely check them out. I wouldn’t plan to make a day out of going to the shop as I found the surrounding area to be a bit flat without anything to see. However, mission accomplished clothing wise!
Where to stroll
On past trips to Los Angeles, I somehow never made it to the waterfront. SHOCKING I KNOW. I don’t know how or why that never happened but alas, I finally made it. Wow. The views were just stunning and I was quite jealous of the well-maintained parks, that were easily accessible and full of beautiful palm trees.
These are two areas in particular that I loved strolling around:
1) The walking trails along the coastal driving route to Rancho Palos Verdes. The area itself has some pretty amazing real estate, however the homes pale in comparison to the stunning ocean views, that you can see from pretty much anywhere. As you’re driving, you’ll see designated stops where it’s safe to park and walk along the trails which we found to be helpful as tourists. One tip if you’ve decided to check this area out, try your best to make it to the Starbucks at Golden Cove Center before the sun sets for a gorgeous lookout point. There is a large terrace at that particular location, so you shouldn’t feel crowded by any means and there’s no such thing as a bad view there. We didn’t plan on catching the sunset, but just so happened to after popping in to Trader Joe’s for some snacks and it was a beautiful surprise.
2) Palisades Park in Santa Monica, which offers sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean stretches for a little over 2.5 km along Ocean Avenue, is a must visit. The park has benches scattered throughout, is extremely clean and surprisingly peaceful. It’s probably a good idea to check it out and take a breather before diving back into LA traffic. Palisades Park is also very close to Santa Monica pier, which I would recommend skipping. It’s a hodgepodge of kitschy attractions and characters, that no one seemed to be enjoying. At least we can say we’ve been there..? Just stick to the park.
Driving
This deserved its own section…
I could not do a post on Los Angeles without mentioning the driving. It is truly terrible there and not for the faint at heart. I have driven in many places around the world and LA stands out, and not in a good way. The lack of signalling by drivers, erratic lane changes, running reds like it was going out of style and sudden braking was challenging and at times, very unpleasant. It should be of no surprise that we got rear ended, while coming off the freeway, in a hit and run. Someone was incredibly impatient and didn’t want to wait their turn despite the heavy traffic. Not kidding! Anyways, the damage was next to nil and Turo (the car equivalent of airbnb) was a breeze to deal with thankfully. I highly recommend renting from that platform instead of a traditional agency, as a car is pretty much essential for getting around and the prices are much better. Just stay vigilant!
Final note
All in all, my “homecoming” to Los Angeles was everything I had hoped it would be (minus the driving). Revisiting some spots from my childhood and checking out new ones with my husband was a ton of fun. You know, there really is something to be said about having the sun kiss your face and being right by the ocean: instant relaxation. I understand now why my grandpa didn’t want to leave, I wouldn’t have either!
Short & Sweet
Accommodations: Airbnb, VRBO, hotels
Neighbourhoods to stay in: West Hollywood, Venice Beach, Pacific Palisades
Mode of transportation: car is a must, Turo has great options
Currency: US dollars (USD)
