Gems of Barbados
Powder white sand, crystal clear water, friendly vibes, abundant seafood, conveniently located outside of the hurricane belt and…Crop Over!
I love Barbados. I’ve been at least 6 times and I can honestly say it’s one of my favourite islands. At one point, I was even thinking it could be the retirement spot…until I saw those real estates prices. Ha.
This is a round up of my faves, tips and some must-do’s for first timers to the island . If you’re looking for a great island getaway, keep reading.
Beaches
Barbados has 80 beaches to be enjoyed and I’m trying my best to visit as many as possible, however there are 2 that I keep going back to and for different reasons.
First up is Carlisle Bay, that sits in the middle of a Unesco Heritage Site and is technically a harbour with several beaches on the south west coast. The water is clear and calm, making it perfect for water sports or just floating around. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong. It also has some delicious food offerings like the fish sandwiches from the famous Cuz’s fish shack and delicious pina coladas & conch fritters at Harbour Lights. Carlisle Bay is my first beach stop every single time I visit, however I recommend avoiding it when a cruise ship docks. The vibes are so different (crowded and very loud) and not really my cup of tea.
Next is Bottom Bay on the east coast. It feels like this quiet hidden gem is very slowly being discovered by travellers, but it remains pretty untouched. I love the powdery soft sand, sky high palm trees that give pretty dramatic views cliffside and clean water. However, since it’s on the east coast, the waters are rough and not safe for swimming. One thing to note with Bottom Bay, it is only accessible by a beautiful steep long stairway that can be challenging if you have mobility issues.
Food
There are options at every price point however, I’ve come to realize that Barbados does fine dining very well. Street food (with one exception) has been a consistent miss I hate to say, so I’ve stopped trying. I went to the famed fish fry in Oistins, which was pretty disappointing and even to road side shops where only locals were getting food from, tucked away in random neighbourhoods and no luck. Here are a few places that I do highly recommend:
This is hands down my favourite place to have breakfast on the island. The view from the back of the cafe is just so beautiful and relaxing. I love that they don’t blast music, which allows patrons to just take in the scenery. The menu is solid with great coffee, but really it’s all about the ocean view here. Go as early as possible to snag a table at the back and enjoy.
Make a reservation well in advance if you want to dine at this lovely spot on the west coast. I don’t think I’d chance driving out “so far” in hopes of waiting for a table. It was booked solid from open to close when I went with the Mr. not too long ago. The ocean-front restaurant is built into a 17th century fort which made for a nice backdrop, with a clean nautical aesthetic. The food was excellent and the service was top notch. I was skeptical about dining on the west coast (more on that below) but ended up really enjoying myself and not wanting to leave.
This one is for the romantics out there. If you’re looking for a charming dinner setting to catch a beautiful sunset with your other half, this is the spot. Even if you’re not, still head to the award-winning rooftop restaurant of the Little Arches Hotel and enjoy the well-planned menu. You won’t be rushed through your delicious meal and you really don’t want to be when you’re there. Word on the street is that their brunch is really good, so if you can’t get a dinner reservation then aim for earlier in the day. The bonus with a daytime reservation is that you can head straight across to Enterprise beach afterwards and unwind ( I don’t recommend doing so at night).
A visit to Carlisle Bay isn’t complete without a stop at the legendary Cuz’s to get a ‘cutter’ (fish sandwich). This family-run business has been there for over 40 years and shows no sign of slowing down, just be prepared to wait. This blue stand in the parking lot of Pebbles beach has received a TON of international press over the years and rightly so! The fish sandwich, made to order with fresh marlin, is perfectly cooked with simple toppings that I didn’t initially think much of, but it all comes together so well. Sandwiches range from $7-10 CAD and it’s best to walk with cash (USD or BBD), as I don’t recall seeing any tap machine there.
Image courtesy of Google Maps
Where to stay
This will be short & sweet (ha!). Vacation rentals are the way to go for Barbados. Airbnb, VRBO and Alleyne Real Estate are the sites I use to book for accommodations. I think all-inclusive resorts and most of the hotels are of low value on the island. You pay way too much for too little and they’re generally not located on the best beaches. One exception might be the Little Arches Boutique Hotel on Enterprise Beach - I’ve been unable to snag a room but the charming grounds and lobby are quite enticing. The great thing about Barbados is that there are so many options for every budget, it’s hard to go wrong.
I have to take a second to mention the beachfront rental I was in for Cropover at Sandy Hook 21 in Maxwell. The location was great, it looked even better in person and the concierge service that came with it was fantastic. Zero complaints and I’d happily stay there again!
Interesting sights/things to do
I’m sure you’ve seen the images of Rihanna pre-Covid in Barbados every summer wearing a stunning costume surrounded by other revellers. That is Grand Kadooment - the pinnacle event of Crop Over. An annual summer festival that traces its origins back to the late 1700s when successful sugar cane harvests (thanks to slavery) were celebrated with music, dancing and food. With time, Crop Over has morphed into one of the Caribbean’s top carnivals with people travelling from every corner of the world to experience it, myself included. There’s so much to say about my 2018 Crop Over experience that it deserves its own post. For now, I’ll sum it up in 2 words: amazing and unforgettable.
This natural wonder quickly went to the top of my favourite things to do in Barbados. It is likely to be far from where you’ll be staying, however it is worth the drive to the north coast. Depending on the day, you’re able to take a guided tour down into the cave and swim in the natural rock pool that’s about 8 ft deep. Because it’s a sea cave, there are several openings that offer some really amazing views. One note, if you have mobility issues, then I hate to say it but you’re better off walking along the cliffs and grabbing a bite at the restaurant on-site because the climb down is ridiculously steep and the rocks are slippery. Oh yea, make sure your things are in a waterproof bag if you’re strolling along the cliffs...I may or may not have firsthand experience with the insanely high ocean spray courtesy of waves crashing into the side.
Here are some other places/things that might be of interest:
Mount Gay Rum Distillery Tours: I don’t drink but my friends who do raved about the experience, so I’m more than happy to plug it here for those of you who enjoy rum.
Limegrove: this is the spot for high end shopping in Barbados. I love the collection of boutique stores here, along with more recognizable names such as Cartier and Montblanc.
Harrison’s Cave: Full disclosure-I haven’t been here but it looks like a great family-friendly activity. Harrison’s is not just one cave, but a 2.7 km limestone cave system with active streams and waterfalls. It’s suitable for all ages and the tram used to explore is accessible by an elevator. There’s also ziplining and some other eco-adventures available, so I imagine it would be easy to spend an entire day here.
Oistin’s Fish Fry: extremely popular with locals and visitors on Friday nights. By day, it’s a seafood market and by night, it turns into a large outdoor dining spot. You go for the food and stay for the vibes, because the food is pretty lacklustre. There’s live music, domino playing, families liming (hanging out) and cute arts & crafts stalls. Anyways, I seriously must be going to the wrong food stalls. If you’re reading this and you know of a specific one I should try, please let me know!
Transportation
Getting around is quite easy actually since the island is only 430 km² . For my first few trips, I used the local buses which are pretty convenient for getting around most of the island. I found it tricky catching a bus that was heading to the east coast, just need a bit of patience. Also, there isn’t a timetable you can follow. Thankfully, the drivers are all very friendly and just make sure to tell them where you’re headed. Fare each way is $1.75 USD/BBD3.50, best to walk with Barbadian currency though.
Another great option is a car rental. I know some people like to hire drivers (I’ve done it once) but it’s just not as convenient. When I’m on vacation, I like to move at my own pace. The last time the Mr. and I visited, I did my Googles and decided to get a rental from Top Car Rental. Highly highly recommend this family run business that’s been around for over 50 years! The customer service was smooth from beginning to end, great pricing, the car was in good shape and pick-up/drop-off in the airport parking lot is easy. I’ll gladly stick to them on future trips. Don’t forget that driving is on the left side.
A bit of social commentary
No place is perfect and Barbados is no exception.
As much as I love it, I really wish the unspoken (or maybe spoken, depending on who you talk to) segregation on the island didn’t exist. It’s the only one I’ve been to, where some areas/businesses are distinctly white and it is impossible not to see it as a Black person.
My least favourite beach, to date, has been Sandy Lane on the west coast. I know it’s very popular and is often mentioned by travel publications/“best of” lists, however it was reminiscent of growing up in Calgary during the 80’s/early 90s. Weird considering it’s the Caribbean and I’m Black, right? Anyways, I prefer not to feel out of place in the islands, so haven’t been back to that beach nor do I have any plans to.
Want another example? Google pictures of this mas camp called Blue Box Cart. I played mas for Crop Over 2018 with friends and it was so odd seeing that particular mas camp on the road. The juxtaposition of a very white spot in a sea of colour was borderline comical. A mas camp that’s 98% white (visitors and locals alike) to this day, does not make any sense to me. I even checked out their website to see if it said somewhere “for white people only”, of course it didn’t but you get my drift. I mean..it is the Caribbean after all. Every non-white Bajan I mentioned this to just laughed and went “yup”.
I hope that one day, some day, the weird segregation of Barbados will be a relic of the past but for now, just know it’s there and it is what it is.
Will I be back for a 7th time? 100%. I have so many great memories in Barbados and I can’t wait to make more.
Short & Sweet
Accommodations: Airbnb, VRBO, Alleyne Holiday Rentals
Neighbourhoods to stay in: Christchurch (Hastings, Rockley, Maxwell, Welches, Enterprise)
Mode of transportation: public bus, car
Currency: Barbadian dollar (BBD), USD widely accepted
